The collection designer Francisco Costa turned out Tuesday had a unique streamlined and sophisticated look that had been virtually absent from the runways at New York Fashion Week, bucking every trend along the way.

Half the outfits were a creamy white color, and another, say, 25 percent were various shades of gray. The only pops of color came from a few green dresses near the end of the presentation, held in the sparse, industrial-looking ground floor of the company's Garment District office building.

The clothes, ranging from the opening ensemble -- a notch-collar seamless jacket with a stretch, string-back bodysuit and long, high-waisted pencil skirt -- to an almost floor-length satin organza dress with molded short sleeves, were serene and elegant. There was no big message from Costa as the garments were allowed to speak for themselves.

A group of double-panel dresses were light and delicate, while the trouser looks, some with skinny legs, others with wide legs and all with high waists -- were long and lean.

"I love the purity," said stylist Tina Chai. "It had the essence of Calvin. It was so fresh."

The caveat to all this, though, is that these styles likely would call attention to any figure flaw because there are none of those distractions that many real women count on.